The Maison Hermès, that has consistently demonstrated a predilection for freeing itself from encumbering tradition, has therefore developed a men’s timepiece with the moon stage as its central feature. A daring bet, given how deeply rooted stereotypes are. And success was not long in coming.
Launched at the beginning of 2019, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune wasted no time in bagging the Calendar & Astronomy Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie p Genève (GPHG) after that year. Its initial 100 bits were sold out in only a couple weeks. Other limited series followed, all sold out evenly fast. A market success, a rare timepiece created for enlightened connoisseurs who crave the singular Hermès signature
In the Sahara to Mars
In 2020, Hermès suggests three fresh interpretations of L’Heure de la Lune. What they all have in common is the use of meteorite dials. The first version is the nearest to the first version, with a”Black Sahara” meteorite dial that provides the very same variations of gray as the first meteorite dials. The outcome is a sober, elegant and modern masculine timepiece.
The next version takes a far more exclusive orientation: there will be only two of them, with a mostly green Martian meteorite dial, a color repeated on the ring. An astonishing, daring, atypical livery in a platinum case.
Hermès : les trois nouveautés incontournables
The previous variant could be the most accomplished. It succeeds in blending an adventurous use of colour with the emphasized complication, completed with Hermès creativity. On a dial of lunar meteorite, one discovers the two enormous mother-of-pearl moons, the top one depicting a winged horse, Pegasus, evocative of the maison’s original equestrian domain.

Hermès : les trois nouveautés incontournables
The two satellite counters (one for the time, the other for the date) provide a gradation of chocolate tones on a textured background, reminiscent of this meteorite beneath. The three blued steel hands unfold in excellent comparison and supply great legibility. The opinion comes in a white gold case with a chocolate necklace onto which you can admire the delicacy of this Hermès watch touch which makes it so distinctive. In the long run, the overall effect of this variant is lively, contemporary, very wealthy and complementary. It could be impossible, in the end, to state whether this version of the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune is classical or contemporary: it’s a little bit of everything at once — and this really is the very definition of ideal equilibrium.
Completely Striking

The equilibrium of the brand new Cape Cod is quite a bit more uncertain. That is what makes it so magical: with its fresh hammered livery, the piece is lively, changeful, unusual — dare we say it, nearly upsetting! Once again, Hermès moves in an unexpected way. The soft lines pictured just 30 decades back by their renowned designer, Henri d’Origny, are described here by a hand-hammered treatment, so there will never be two identical pieces.
Hermès plays the substance, shifting the outer steel kind but preserving the original lines of this Cape Cod. So as to fully showcase the hammered effect, Hermès has chosen to keep the case from the native dark gray tones of steel, while the dial provides a gradation of hammered black that will reflect light in its own unpredictable and playful way. An impertinent bit for people who are do not mind breaking a rule or two.
Slim Once, Slim Forever
One last thing remains to us — the unmissable Slim d’Hermès. Still as fine and outstanding as ever, the collection is flourishing, gaining in adulthood but still resists the settling effect of intellect — and is so much better for this! At just 5 years old, the Slim nevertheless manages to surprise us. Its latest variant, a GMT version, will be no exception. Its (in my opinion, ideal ) diameter of 39.5 mm will satisfy discerning collectors, anxious to not go against the rules of classicism. On the other hand, the geometry of its dial will delight lovers of modernity: using its Slim d`Hermès GMT watches, Hermès has created among the very rare entirely asymmetrical timepieces. At 6 o’clock lies the date, at 10 at the second time zone, completed at 2.15 from the Home Time/Local Time indicator.

Hermès : les trois nouveautés incontournables
Against the measured typography of the hour scale and also the date, the second time zone numerals present a chaotic yet perfectly legible collection. The fine, modern, tasteful typeface designed by Philippe Apeloig for Hermès is still just as much valued as it always was. Its legibility is raised from the drama of dial finishes, alternating opaline or circular grained textures, paired with satin-finished and/or polished hands in gold or blued steel, beneath a lightly smoked glass. A seldom seen amount of diversity on a single dial, but one that, when placed in the appropriate places, with the right depth, defines the highly prosperous dial of this Slim d’Hermès GMT.